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Digital Cameras
If shooting HDRI is your excuse for getting
a better DSLR, look for Auto Exposure
Bracketing (AEB). The models listed here excel in this
feature.
Canon EOS 1D Mark III
Allows configuration of a personal bracketing mode, with up to 7 frames in 3 EV steps. Burst mode up to 10 fps, which means you can shoot handheld HDRIs in almost every situation.10 MP | 1.3 crop factor |
$4.200 (Body Only) on Amazon.com 
Nikon D3
Nikon's new flagship camera. Miraculously captures noiseless images at high ISO, which means you can shoot handheld with fast shutter everywhere. Sports AEB with 9 frames in 1 EV steps, with 9 fps.12.1 MP | Fullframe |
$5.300 (Body Only) on Amazon.com 
Nikon D300
Evolutionary upgrade to the D200. Or better put, it's a smaller D3 with a smaller sensor for a smaller budget. Shoots the same 9 frame AEB in 1 EV steps, with 6fps (8 with a battery grip).12.3 MP | 1.5 crop factor |
$1.750 (Body Only) on Amazon.com 
Pentax K20D
Big Bracketing on a budget! Shoots 5 frames in 2 EV steps, which is really all you need (and the same end-to-end coverage you get from the Nikons). But has only 3 fps, so don't go without your tripod.14.6 MP | 1.5 crop factor |
$1.300 (Body Only) on Amazon.com
Fisheye Lenses
Sure, you can shoot a pano with any lens.
But fisheyes allow you to capture more FOV in one
shot, thus getting your panorama done with fewer shots.
Nikon 10.5mm f/2.8
First-class quality lens, best you can get for a Nikon. Gets you 180° diagonal FOV, so there is no circular border visible. Takes you 6+2 shots to cover a full panorama. I use it all the time and love it.Sigma 8mm f/3.5
A panorama shooter's classic. Great metal housing, moderate image quality. Pictures a cropped circle on small sensor cams, and full circular 180° on a fullframe sensors.Sigma 4.5mm f/2.8
This one is a little revolution. It is your only choice for getting a fully circular 180° FOV image on anything other than a fullframe sensor camera. Lets you make a panorama with as little as 2-3 shots.Panorama Heads
It takes a special tripod head to turn the
camera around the optical pivot of your lens (AKA nodal point), so
your images are free from parallax shift.